Some handy hints on using
The Virtual Saleyard and what to do when you find that elusive special horse!
Searching
We have set up the Search
facility so that you can specify a number of search criteria such as breed, discipline etc
on which to search. The shortlisted records are displayed in tabular form, with the
listing number linked to allow a detailed view of a selected listing. The list will
feature Enhanced and Featured Listings first and then ads listed in
descending price order.
Enhanced Listings
have a thumbnail photo and carry more information such as photos, pedigrees etc. You will
find that Enhanced Listings also frequently carry a Vendor Logo.
Clicking on the logo will take you to the vendor's web site.
Featured Listings are like Enhanced Listings and can
also be seen at the top and sides of editorial pages within Cyberhorse, as well as The
Virtual Saleyard itself. Clicking on a Featured Listing will give you the same view as for
listing selected by a normal search.
Email
Notification Service can be set up by TVS Members by going to the Member
Services section. Essentially, this service will email you whenever a listing meeting your
search criteria is added or changed in The Virtual Saleyard.
There is also an Email to a Friend
facility within each listing display.
Inspecting
Unless you
are very brave, you will want to inspect your shortlisted horses before making a purchase
commitment. If you are not sure what to look for, here are some do's and don'ts.
This list is not exhaustive (for instance we don't even talk about conformation) but
combined with your own expert advice, may be of assistance.
Always try to see the horse in its normal environment. You
can judge a great deal about how the horse has been treated, its general state of physical
and mental health and its attitude to people and other horses. Examine the horse's normal
accommodation for signs of vices such as crib biting, fence running etc.
Get the vendor to show you the horse on the lunge or under
saddle. Think about whether they are handling the horse well or badly and if you would be
better or worse than them in the same situation.
Always look carefully at a horse's feet. Apart from looking
for obvious signs of bad shoeing or hoof care, the feet are the best indication of the
quantity and regularity of feeding, as well as general health. Be wary of ridges or bumps
on the hoof wall as these indicate periods of poor nutrition or health.
If getting a veterinary inspection (recommended) be aware
that some vets are unduly harsh, failing horses for blemishes that are not really serious.
Always ask 2 questions about any vet report which is less than perfect. Firstly, what
chance out of 100 is there that this fault will stop me from using the horse for what I
want to do? Secondly, what percentage of horses pass your examinations?
Remember that you will most likely be owning your horse for
a period of several years. A $5,000 horse will "cost" only $500 a year as part
of its purchase price, compared to the cost of upkeep. An extra $1,000 to buy a much
better horse is trivial spread over its useful working life.
Many purchasers take along a friend to the inspection. Such
friends frequently have unduly large influence on the purchase decision, to the extent
that you can either be put off a perfectly reasonable horse, or conned into buying a dud.
Before taking notice of their opinion, ask one simple question. How many horses have they
bought for themselves that have turned out OK?
If you are buying from a regular vendor, don't be afraid to
ask for references. When you have the names, follow them up. You need to know in general
terms if your vendor is selling horses that produce a good result for their new owners.
If you have any doubts about whether your horse has been
given a "mind altering substance" prior to your inspection, insist that your vet
take a blood sample which can be subseqently tested.
Obviously a thin undernourished horse on a run down property
can be a problem buy, but so also can be a fat glossy one at an up market stud. Look out
for problems such as OCD that often arise from overfeeding. Also be careful of horses that
have been reared on their own in smallish paddocks, no matter how beautifully fenced. They
may have unmarked legs, but they have no social skills with other horses and regard humans
as their equals (not good).
Negotiating
Remember the first rule of
negotiation - there is always another option. If you are buying, no matter how interested
you are in a particular horse, act as if its only one of several options you are
considering. There are new horses being born every day and new ones coming on the market
every minute, so there is little chance of you missing out.
Try to find out why the horse is on the market. Is the vendor really desperate?
Do they need to sell to make room, to raise cash, leaving the property or they cost too
much to feed? Many a good horse has been bought under these circumstances and the buyer
has made a good investment. In these cases, a quick sale for cash will make the vendor
very happy, so don't play too hard to get.
It can be a good tactic to show up for an inspection with
your horse transport ready, so as to clearly indicate you'll be taking the horse with you
if you like it. Many a vendor has come running after your empty truck as you drive away,
offering you a better deal.
If it really matters to you that the horse is sound,
pregnant, foolproof for kids etc get it in writing from the vendor and make the sale
invalid if the horse doesn't turn out as promised. Be careful that any problems are not
caused by something you have done though, as your subsequent legal battle may cost more
than the horse ever could.
Use similar TVS listings as your guide to prices. Remember
that most vendors are keen to sell and have built some fat into their asking price. Try
also to get gear such as rugs, halters, bridles etc included in the deal. Maybe the vendor
will keep the horse for you for a little while. Perhaps you can get it transported to its
new home? Remember if you don't ask, you don't get.